Ellicott Rock via Bad Creek Trail 3/9

(Click to enlarge.)

This is a very special place. The destination for this approximately 5 mile in-out hike takes us into the heart of the 8,000 plus acres of the Ellicott Rock Wilderness area (see map for its trails) that was begun in 1975 and expanded in 1984. This unique 3 state wilderness area is named after a famous surveyor (Major Andrew Ellicott) who chiseled a rock N-G along the Chattooga River on December 26, 1811 to attempt to settle a boundary dispute, an effort which gave 18 miles of territory to North Carolina that Georgia claimed. It is the only wilderness area to include territory from 3 states and 3 national forests and further includes a separately designated "wild and scenic" river corridor running through its heart like a bent spear. It includes 3 interesting waterfalls: Spoonauger Falls, King Creek Falls and the somewhat hidden Fowler Creek Falls. For further details on its many opportunities see the U.S. Park Service web site.

We met at Cullowhee Recreation Center, 9 am, and only two decided to brave the rain that was wrapping up. To reach the trailhead, follow Highway 107 south of Cashiers, then turn right on Bull Pen Road. The route continues on Bull Pen's narrow dirt road reaching the trailhead about a mile or so before Bull Pen Bridge ("old iron bridge" on some maps) over the Chattooga River. The trailhead parking is next to where the road crosses Fowler Creek. Parking is very constrained. We hiked a ridge on the east side of the Chattooga River and on to a backcountry riverside campground very near the North Carolina/South Carolina/Georgia state boundaries. . See the AllTrails link for map and details; AllTrails: Ellicott's Rock via Bad Creek Trail.

The star of this wilderness area is the drama of the Chattooga River. We hiked around section 1. I've boated section 3 including Bull Sluice with a Boy Scout troop. Section 2 is a bit easier. Section 1 & 4 are above my pay grade. Numerous YouTube clips by kayakers with GoPro cameras on their helmets  give a glimpse of the magnetic pull of its wild beauty. (The clips come with a cross-section of American musical interests.)

Highlights from section 1:

Highlights from section 2: 

Highlights from section 3:

Highlights from section 4:

Since May 10, 1974, the Chattooga River has been protected along a 15,432-acre (6,245 ha) corridor as a national Wild and Scenic River. It is famous for its whitewater boating challenges, excessive number of boating deaths (not current) and for sections of it filmed in the Deliverance movie. The river section of just our hike region includes two Class V rapids (photograph of the drop of the one just near the bridge) and several Class III & IV rapids over ledges and around boulder fields, through which keeping your kayak bow high through the drops ("boofing") is critical to success and perhaps survival. If you just ride your kayak long enough, you'll end up in Savannah GA.

It is also an emotionally weighty place for us because the socio-political challenges over its existence and management lies at the heart of the nature vs civilization struggle that has been going on since humankind first set foot on this continent. The challenge of its "wildness" is wryly and brilliantly described by Bronwen Dickey, the daughter of James Dickey (author of Deliverance), in her long (but worth it) essay titled "The Last Wild River".

Nice off-road parking at trailhead area

Road conditions on the gravel part of this road were good. Fowler Creek is the landmark to indicate that you have arrived. Park alongside the road or at the gated road (but don't block the gate area.) Definitely avoid the abrupt edges of either side of its culvert. No railings here.

I was curious as to how this designated wilderness area would follow the requirement for no blaze marks and signage. There was sometimes signage to mark trails that split off but no blaze marks on trees that is common in national forests. The trail was very easy to follow.

The amount of down limbs caused some worry as to how well-maintained the trail might be. This was an isolated situation as the rest of the trail was in great shape.

The only puddle of the entire hike that was long gone by the time we returned.

My iNaturalist app said this was bear scat in the middle of the trail, 

but disappointingly no actual bear sightings happened during our hike.

Not as much plant diversity compared with hikes that run next to streams, but a number of our green friends that have been with us all winter were frequent along the trail. 

A young beech tree still clings to its fall leaves.

A collection of different kinds of mosses and ferns that all seem to support each other.

Lightning got this tall pine.

Unknown

Pretty typical view of trail quality

Violet-toothed Polypore (Trichaptum biforme)

Rattlesnake plantain orchid

Cinquefoil

Pipsissewa

The single leaf "flag" for the cranefly orchid was frequent.

Running cedar moss and galax ran in giant patches along the trail.

Pincushion moss

unknown

Heart-leaf Golden Alexander (Zizia aptera)

unknown

There were a number of switchbacks once close to the river, but the grade on the path itself was easy.

The ribbon marks the spot where the NC GA letters are carved.

A great deal of downed timber made it hard to get close to the river and once there, the letters were covered as near as we could tell.

The only spring flower of the hike, round-leaf violet.

dwarf iris

These two displays of ginger leaf (Little Heartleaf — Hexastylis minor) were not near each other but posting both here together for the sake of comparison.

Campfire rings were common up and down the river edge. By the "leave no trace" rules of a wilderness area, these should not exist and should be removed by forest rangers. Portable camp stoves should be used instead.

river cane

Common haircap moss

On the way uphill, the sun shown periodically for fleeting seconds.

The Iron Bridge

This bridge is a couple of miles beyond our planned trailhead for the day, but when were done with Ellicott Trail we went to take a look at the kayak put-in point for section 1 of the Chattooga. On this day it was clearly a level V run, the water roaring.

This view is from just above the bridge, with slick spots on the rocks that require the greatest care in maneuvering for photos.

Th nearby rain gauge has a float against the numbers that indicates that the CFS (Cubic Feet per Second) was 4.00 on this day. The 4.00 represents 400. One cubic foot of water weighs 62.43 pounds, so that's a water pressure 24,972 lbs. of water per second. Boating Section 1 is only allowed from December through April and only when the CFS is above 350. The roar of the water made it seem like a good day to not go down the river.

The box below this sign provides a form to complete and leave in the box for anyone going down the river in any kind of device from inner tube to kayak.

 Still image taken from the middle of the bridge looking upstream

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 - The End -

-rsh-